The Art of Unfolding and Buttoning a Suit Lapel
A suit lapel is typically designed to be worn flat against the jacket, a standard that complements the overall design. This traditional design is intentional, as lapels are structured to enhance the aesthetics and fit of the suit. However, certain lapels on some suit jackets come with a button, which adds a unique twist to the classical design.
Why Most Lapels Are Kept Buttoned
Most lapels are not intended to be unfolded and buttoned. The structured shape of the lapel is a key aspect of the suit's design, serving to maintain its style and fit. When a lapel is buttoned, it can alter the jacket's appearance and potentially impact its comfort and fit.
Can You Alter a Lapel?
Yes, it is possible to unfold and open the lapel buttonhole on most suits. However, doing so requires a professional touch. If you are considering altering the appearance of your lapel, it's best to consult with a tailor. A tailor can ensure that any modifications do not compromise the jacket's fit or style and can offer advice on how to maintain the suit's quality and appearance.
Historical Context of Lapels
The concept of lapels has a rich and interesting history. Originally, the term "lap" referred to the long strip of a man's coat, pierced with buttonholes, that "overlapped" the opposite edge of the coat that had aligning buttons. The idea was to button the coat up to the neck to keep out wind, dust, mosquitoes, and other annoyances. However, for comfort, people often unbuttoned the top button and left the coat open at the neck. This practice continued well into the 1950s, with some men’s coats retaining the buttonhole and the button under the opposite lapel or little lap.
Over time, the button and the corresponding buttonhole on the opposite lapel have become vestigial, primarily serving as a receptacle for heraldic devices. Today, lapels on most modern suits are not buttoned, as the lapel buttonhole is often decorative and not functional.
Lapel Types and Their Functions
A classic suit jacket lapel is designed to stay folded, whether it's a notch or peak lapel. The lapel buttonhole is mostly decorative, without a button on the opposite side. This design choice allows for a clean and timeless appearance. However, lapels on blazers and sport coats, especially those with outdoor origins, can be turned up to protect the neck. Some of these coats may have a throat button and buttonhole, which adds to their practicality and functionality.
Understanding the history and function of lapels can help you appreciate the artistry and meticulous design of tailoring. Whether you prefer a classic look or a more relaxed silhouette, proper care and occasional consultation with a tailor can ensure that your suit remains a statement of style and comfort.